Climbing Alpamayo

Itinerary

Day 1: Huaraz – Cashapampa – Llamacorral
After the breakfast in the hotel we will aboard in our private bus to go along the Callejón de Huaylas in the north side of Huaraz. passing the different districts such as: Carhuas (2650m / 8692ft), Yungay (2500m / 8200ft), after this city, we will get the Caraz city (2250m / 7380ft), then we will continue our travel to get the last Distrit Cashapampa arriving around 10:00am , where the Donkey Driver will waiting for us to transport our Camping equipments , from here we will start hiking up, after walking 2 hours half we will have lunch, then we will continue hiking up, after hiking up for 5 or 6 hours we will get the first camp named Llamacorral, arriving around 4pm. Overnight camping at (3800m / 12464ft).

Day 02: Llamacorral – Base Camp Arhueycocha (4300m / 14104ft)
Today we will hike along the valley moderate enjoying the beautiful lakes called Ichiccocha and Jatuncocha, turquoise lakes, then we will arrive to nice spot where will have lunch at the place called Quisuar, after it we will climb up to the Alpamayo Base Camp, we will get here early and prepare and check our climbing gears for the next day, overnight at (4300m / 14104ft).

Day 03: Base Camp Arhueycocha – Moraine Camp Alpamayo
After the breakfast we will start climbing up for about 3 hours rocky path and get the Moraine camp, where we will enjoy a splendor views of the mountains Artesonraju, Paria, Pucajirca and others, after the pitch the tents we will check our climbing equipments for the next day and over night camping over (4800m/15744ft).

Day 04: Base Camp Arhueycocha – Moraine Camp Alpamayo
After breakfast, We will climb the glacier for about 4 hours half, where we will put our climbing equipments for continue climbing, then we will get the camp 1 and will have dinner later afternoon and rest, overnight camping at (5550m/18204ft).

Day 05: Camp 1 – Summit Alpamayo – Camp 1
Summit day. The climb starts with a reasonably steep glacier to the bergschrund. Upon crossing the bergschrund it is about 6 – 200 foot pitches to the top. The climbing is simply amazing. The route is on a huge, shady face with good exposure. The climbing ranges from about 45 to 70 degree ice and snow, rated Alpine Ice III in normal conditions. Most of the pitches involve using the tools in piolet traction and pied troisieme for the crampons. V-treads or picket anchors will be used to rappel the climb. . And after to enjoy for a few minutes we will come dawn rappelling with the help of our guide, arriving to the camp place at 11 or 12 am and just for lunch, and rest in the afternoon, overnight in the glacier at (5550m / 18204ft).

Day 06: Camp 1 – Base Camp Arhueycocha
After the breakfast in the Camp 1, we will take the same route to go back to the Moraine Camp, then we will continue go down to the Base Camp. Arriving to the Base Camp around 3:00pm. Overnight camping in the Base Camp at (4300m / 14104ft).

Day 07: Base Camp – Cashapampa – Huaraz
Today we will come back walking down hill along the Santa Cruz valley enjoying the nice view of Jatuncocha and Ichiccocha Lake, till Cashapampa, where the transfer will be waiting for us and will have a last stop for lunch, after lunch we will aboard our private transfer to return Huaraz, for about 3 hors half. Arriving to Huaraz around 4 to 5:00pm. before you will register in the Huascaran National Park your return, it will takes 3 hours half to Pashpa where our private transfer will be waiting to transport to Huaraz and then transfer to your hotel, lunch on the way, arriving to Huaraz around 16:00hours.

What's included

Services included in the prices:

Lima transfers all land transport involved in the itinerary, hotel accommodation in Huaraz on a Bed and Breakfast basis. Once on trek, a full service, including food and all equipment (excluding personal equipment) is included in the trek price.


• Food while on the mountain
• Park Fees
• Group climbing and cooking gear
• Scheduled restaurant meals
• Pack animals and porters for group gear
• Ground transportation from Lima and return and while in the mountains

Not Included:

Travel insurance, meals other than breakfasts when staying in hotels in Lima and Huaraz, sleeping bags, personal trekking gear. Tips for trek staff, Lima Airport departure tax, miscellaneous personal expenses – beer, tips, souvenirs etc.


• Airfare
• Personal equipment
• Tips.
• Alcoholic beverages
• Unscheduled hotel nights and restaurant meals
• Trip and medical/evacuation insurance
• Items of a personal nature; phone calls, laundry, room service and so forth

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CLIMBING GEAR
• Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing (e.g. Mammut Alpine Light, Black Diamond Alpine Bod w/gear loops)
• 2 Locking carabiners Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best. screw gate type, no Autolocking (e.g. Kong HMS, Petzl Attache or William)
• 3 Regular carabiners (e.g. Mammut Standard Wiregate or BD Hot Wire are recommended)
• Belay device (e.g. Black Diamond ATC)
• Ice axe w/leash Lightweight (e.g. Grivel Air Tech, Black Diamond Raven, or Charlet Moser Snowalker) Under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
• Plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach Arctis Expedition or Scarpa Inverno) Make sure the boots have a new stock liner or an alveolite liner
• 1 Pair gaiters or super-gaiters Super gaiters will provide more warmth and are recommended. The Savage gaiter by Climb High is a good choice.
• Crampons, anti-ball plate, and repair kit Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, include a mandatory simple repair kit (e.g. Grivel G12 [new matic or classic], Black Diamond Contact Strap, or Charlet Moser VASAK Flexlock)
• Climbing helmet Adjustable, should fit with hat on
• Perlon cord 30 feet of 6-millimeter perlon cord for prussik material; do not cut prior to trip!
• Adjustable trekking pole

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UPPER BODY
•Polypropylene T-shirt
• d2 Long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days
• Sports bras Two, synthetic, no cotton!
• Soft Shell (e.g. Mammut New Age, Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket, R2 pullover acceptable)
• Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers. (e.g. Mammut Motion XCR or equivalent)
• Expedition down parka w/hood This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket have an insulated hood.
• 2 Pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
• 1 Pair medium weight fleece gloves (Windstopper preferred)
• 1 Pair warm gloves fleece or wool
• Shell gloves or mitts Gore-Tex, with textured rubber palms and taped seams. Nylon shells will not keep your hands dry (Check out OR)
• Warm hat Wool or synthetic
• Balaclava
• Shade hat or baseball cap
• Neck warmer (Optional)

Your head needs to be completely covered during cold conditions. Any area of skin exposed on a cold, windy day is at risk of cold injury. Wind Stopper hats or balaclavas are a great choice.

Climbing Alpamayo

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